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Hi, I’m new to this forum. I consider myself an experimental photographer and one of my loves as a subject is architecture. The lines and patterns really are what draw my eye in. Not to mention old buildings versus new, love them all.

Recently, I was told by another photographer that the floor is extremely important when shooting Architectural shots. And while I would agree depending on the shot, sometimes I feel that the interest is in the whole building or in pieces of it, regardless of whether or not there is a floor.

For example, here is a link to a shot I took recently, that I call Vertigo. It was taken of this really fantastic building in Milwaukee WI. The glass partition in the back is the building, whereas the white part in front is the parking structure for the building. I shot it this way on purpose, how the lines and patterns of the buildings framed in my mind for the shot.

http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/30256453/

Now would this be considered bad architectural photography or good?

Most importantly, I would love to hear from you all on what you think makes a good architectural shot versus a bad one. What are the “Rules” of Architectural Photography?

Thanks again!

Abby

I was wanting to ask the Architectural Photographers in the forum the different ways they correct for color in both interior and exterior shots.

I learn most of what I do by trial so i’m not sure if my method is the right way but I typically use a 18% grey card for RAW balancing interior shots and manually adjust for color in RAW for sunny exteriors.

So I often find living in Phoenix that I’m attacked by bad architecture. As former fastest growing city in the country, much of Phoenix can be seen as a sprawling monster, with endless earth tone identical homes spreading out. However, the desert is a beautiful place, and some homes embrace it.

Here is one example of a home I really enjoy looking at… its in Paradise Valley, a wealthy suburb in the middle of Phoenix.

http://www.azarchitecture.com/property_ … uto_id=621

Hello all,

I’m using my ReadyNAS as a time machine device amongst other things, this is backing an image of my laptop, so the data isn’t really accessible.

As I add music to my iTunes, I’d like to schedule a regular backup/sync to the /media/music directory. So any new albums I add, will find their way into that folder on the ReadyNAS.

This is a one way sync/backup I suppose, but ideally it’d use rsync or something along those lines, so it’s an incremental backup and only copying over the amends to the directory.

I just can’t work out how to do this. I’ve trawled the forums, but haven’t found a basic guide for this.

I’m not sure if this is something I should be setting up in the frontview, in which case i’m not sure how i should be specifying the source (my osx macbook).

or… am i better of scheduling an app on the macbook to do this. I had started playing with yarg (http://alex.turnlav.net/yarg/) However, I’m not sure if this is using the wrong version of rsync, it all went a bit over my head.

Hope this makes sense, any help appreciated.

Thanks!

Ive tried a few times to get nice clear pics of a full moon.
Most not that sucessful.

Im using a 20d with 300L IS with an x1.4 making it 672mm

Ive tried a few / many different combinations of iso/speed/aperture etc
also i use mirror lockup with a tripod with a remote, raw and jpg’d too

Anyone any ideas of the best camera settings ?
I read 100iso 1/125th @ f8 which was sucessful but could definately be bettered

I am aware this is a hard subject to shoot and also there is a lot of dust / debris between myself and the moon making focus a little difficult

The best ive done sofar is with my 70-200L and enlarged it with a few PS tweeks

Here’s why I shoot RAW… (so I don’t have to bother with WB when shooting):

Hello ,

i’m relative new photography , my camera body is a 20D i’ve been for a wile searching for information abot the best format to shot and yhe most recommended between professional and amateur is RAW format over JPEG.

I recently found this info from a we;; know professional photographer (weeding):

CANON EOS10/20D SETTINGS
My recommendation for all Canon 10D/20d for greatest midrange detail and optimum workflow up to 10×15″ prints:
Parameter 1: SETUP:
SIZE – Medium Stairstep
SATURATION – MINUS 1
CONTRAST – MINUS 2
SHARPNESS – PLUS 2
FLASH – E-TTL with no exposure compensation
METEING MODE: Multizone (eyeball with two parenthesis)


My question is : does this setting will affect or improve your qualiy pictures if you shoot in RAW format?? i guess no , but now i’m a little confused.

thank you in advance.

Ruben

Hi there,

I created a small port for Symbian S60 Phones which I wanted to show you! I hope you like it and maybe someone can use it for future porjects

You get all information here:

http://forum.fantasyhaze.com/index.php? … readID=398

and a small video on youtube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxNDmP0M5jg


Description of ChipmunkS60:

The Chipmunk port used the Symbian S60 5th edition application “MobilePaint” as basic application for the game engine. After porting the C code from the original Chipmunk PC version it was used to integrate it into the MobilePaint application. Finally the complemental part was adding a small engine to use the draw mechanism for creating objects.

Finally the last status of the project is that you can draw rectangles and circles which get a own physical state. Furthermore you can draw lines which can be used as static collision objects. By changing the drawing color you can increase the gravity, by using the stroke tool you can decrease the gravity. A button for cleaning the screen is also available. Everything is done by using the touch interface.

Restrictions of the Physic Engine:

Note: Due to the fact that most (well all by default so far) S60 phones don’t have hardware floating point support (Hardware – FPU), so any floating point maths is emulated in software and thus very slow – not good for a physics engine in fact but it runs anyway.


Gameplay (steering):

When starting the application you will have a white space where you can draw all things.
On the side you have a tool panel which can be clicked and moved whereever you want. You choose your tool and start painting. During painting the physics will not be enabled. After you have finished your stroke will be moved by physics.

You can choose following tools:

Clear Screen

….

Imagine it. Draw it. Watch it come to life!

About

Physify utilizes the Chipmunk physics engine/library.

Physify is a 2D physics sandbox for the iPhone that takes your drawings and makes them react to the laws of physics. Draw boxes, circles, polygons and combine them to form a car, ragdoll, or anything you can think of! Physify allows you to save entire scenes, or individual objects, such as ragdolls, cars, etc. and reload them any time you want.

Features:

- Realistic 2D physics
- 13 different tools to use to create or modify the scene
- 4 types of joints to constrain objects together in a variety of ways
- Save and load progress
- Adjust physical properties of each tool
- Help and information pages for each tool
- Choice of accelerometer or defined gravity
- Duplicate, erase, or manipulate groups of objects
- Pre-made creations included
- Progress saved automatically

The only limit is your imagination. You have an infinite world to create an endless amount of contraptions and objects!

If you enjoy Phun, iPhysics, Toy Box, Touch Physics, or Crayon Physics, then Physify is the game for you!

I am a writer, and I use the OpenOffice.org Office Productivity Suite exclusively in my work. I like it because it’s free, is community-supported, and has most of the features that I really need to get my job done.

I recently finished the 3rd draft of my first book, Freedom To Live, so I know what it’s like to use OpenOffice.org Writer to create and edit a significant work of 400 pages, with over 30 chapters, a two-level table of contents, and several pictures. I also used OpenOffice.org Draw for the cover design, and PDF export to generate files to send to Lulu for printing. I was pleased to find that OpenOffice.org was up to the task, but there were a few quirks I had to navigate and some missing features which made the task more painful than I would have liked.

I partitioned my book as one sub-document per chapter with a master document containing the top-level table of contents and separating pages for the various sections. This approach worked really well because the text is huge; over 130,000 words. By avoiding applying formatting directly to paragraphs and using styles consistently, I could make global style changes just by editing the styles in the master document. I could also set the page size in the master document to what I needed for publishing, while leaving the page sizes in the sub-documents more appropriate for easy editing on-screen.

I struggled somewhat to get OpenOffice.org to do everything I wanted; partly because I’d never written such a large document before and needed to use features I had never used before, and partly because I ran into a number of bugs and missing or brain-dead features. Some of these may be due to OpenOffice.org’s compatibility with Microsoft Word, but in other areas OpenOffice.org appears to lag behind Word slightly. Most of these issues were already reported in the OpenOffice.org project issue tracking database. I have a background in Software Engineering, so I was better placed than most to track down the issues that I ran into, the main ones being:

* Document outlining is half-baked, making numbering and headers difficult.
* Scaling objects in Draw doesn’t scale contained text.
* JPEG images from scanners don’t crop correctly when inserted as links.
* The layout engine can hang on complex documents.
* Objects don’t remain centred when generating HTML for the web.
* You can’t easily set the image resolution when exporting from Draw.
* Page Styles don’t act hierarchically, making page size changes difficult.
* Putting the page numbers in the header margin was tricky.
* No text-to-speech/screen-reader integration.

….