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I’m looking for Architectural or Art Student Photographers who needs to make a little money taking pictures.
I have pre selected few Architecturally Interesting Buildings around the world that I would like to be photographed.
If you are interested and have a good Camera with at least 5MP and a little experience with Architectural photography please contact me: bdermel at yahoo dot com

The fee will be based per building and where in the world you are located..
Thanks,

I recently finished a little report on the duration between graduation and licensure in NY State. The Board gave me a little data on the 15,000 licensed architects and I charted how long it takes to get licensed.

If you’re interested in such a subject, The chart for NY State is posted at http://www.stairwaytoarchitecture.com

It’s a 4meg pdf, linked at http://www.stairwaytoarchitecture.com/i … REPORT.pdf

It looks like this:


enjoy. I’m one of the dots in there somewhere… I guess I could find it if I looked…

please let me know if there is anything unclear in the charts or the information. Thanks.

D. Gualdim Pais (1118-1195), portuguese crusader, templar friar and knight of D. Afonso Henriques (1112-1185) and D.Sancho I (1154-1212), kings of Portugal, was the founder of the city, castle and convent of Tomar.

He fought against the moors during the reconquista, and was made knight by D. Afonso Henriques in 1139, after the battle of Ourique.
He went to the holly land as knight templar, where he stay during 5 years, participating in the siege of Gaza and Ascalon.

In 1157 he returned to Portugal and was ordered as the 4º Grand Master of the Knights Templar. He founded several castles and perceptories, like Almourol, Idanha, Ceras, Monsanto and Pombal.

He was sieged by the Almohads in 1190 at Tomar. However he and his knights succefully defend the city.

He died at Tomar in 1195, and he is buried in the church of Santa Maria do Olival, also in Tomar.

I was listening to podcast #108 where Martin dabbles in a little astrophotography. Up until I joined this community, my photography experience was limited to astrophotography. I had free access to a small observatory with a LX200 telescope (2000mm f/10), which I no longer have access to (moved). I thought I would put together a few basic tips for anyone interested in this fascinating type of photography. As I like to say, it’s all about the light. Gathering photons on that sensor.

Believe it or not, planets and the moon get boring pretty quickly–the real action reveals itself in galaxies, nebulae and star clusters. For the first time in history, anyone with a DSLR and even a low-range telescope can access vast expanses of our universe, full of color, shape, form and all of the other wonderful things that make up good photographs. But, occasionally, and especially to start, the moon is a nice target. Also, the preferred method of capturing planets is video! Don’t ask me why, but it is pretty much a hard fast rule. The idea is to get the planet in the viewfinder and roll HD video at 60 fps. The hard part of astrophotography is focus. Even if you get just 5 seconds of video, that’s 300 frames to choose from–and as the camera autofocuses, it inevitably nails a few frames spot on. You just go through the frames and find the best focused shots. Here’s an example of Jupiter–though not particularly in great focus




Here’s an example of a moon shot grabbing the camera straight out of the bag with no telescope or insane telephoto lens (I can’t remember which lens–probably 50mm):



Here’s another shot of the moon–this time with a tripod and a 300mm zoom lens. You can get pretty close with a 300mm lens and a tripod. Tip–white balance off the moon itself.



And finally, here is a shot with aforementioned telescope (2000mm f/10). Know that this telescope could optically get way down to inside of a tiny crater and fill the frame. Again, focus is the key–and shooting HD video at 60fps.



I’m going to update this post with some of my own images when I can get into my archives–so the next part about “deep sky” images (galaxies, nebulae, star clusters, etc.) will have some examples I just grabbed off of google images.


Deep Sky

Martin had mentioned in the podcast that he couldn’t get a particular shot because the stars were moving too fast. Indeed, they move faster than one might think. The closer they are to us, the faster they move–so the moon, planets and local objects move faster than say, the Orion nebula, which is millions of light years away. What many of the mid to upper tier telescopes do so well has to do with “tracking”. They have motors on them that move the telescope imperceptably to keep the subject in the frame in the exact same place as it moves across the sky. Have you ever seen star trails in photographs? No tracking system is used in these photos–so you’re essentially looking at the subject as it moves from east to west across the sky.

….

So just recently I sold a bunch of my lenses and 7D to trade up to a 5D Mkii and zeiss 50mm f2.0. A couple of weeks later a family called me to do a portrait session. I was a little nervous because my zeiss is manual focus only, and I would be shooting 3 dogs, and a 2, 5, and 6 year old. I did the session and it went great

I thought some of you might be interested in how this went as well as how the lens performed. Zeiss recently started making manual focus lenses in canon and nikon mounts. In the canon version, you have all the usual metering, aperture control, and even focus confirmation. The missing element is autofocus. This zeiss lens is a couple hundred bucks cheaper than canon’s 50mm f/1.2L, and the build quality of the zeiss is far superior (all metal, even the hood, and buttery focus ring), but you do lose some weather sealing, and an f-stop. Most of the reviews state that the sharpness of the zeiss is better than canon’s L, at least in the corners — they may be equivalent in the center.

The manual focus (MF) requirement of the Zeiss lenses was the biggest adjustment after relying on AF for many years. That said, you’d be surprised at how quickly you get accustomed to MF. The first obstacle I ran into was that manually focusing the Zeiss was almost impossible with the stock focus screen on the 7D and 5D. The stock focus screen is optimized for both fast and slow lenses, but if you look through your viewfinder with a 50mm f1.4 lens, you aren’t viewing a DoF of f/1.4 (even with the depth of field preview button on). Instead, the depth of field you’re seeing is only about f/4.0 — this is due to the microprisms embedded in the stock focus screen. So, step 1 was buying canon’s “S” focus screen, optimized for f2.8 and faster lenses. With this screen installed it’s WYSIWYG when you look thru the viewfinder, and manual focusing is a much easier.

My first worry when shooting portraits with the Zeiss was, “how many shots am I going to miss?”. After a bit of practice, the answer for me is “not many”. Even with AF, when shooting kids, you’re going to miss shots. One issue with shooting AF is that you have to rely on a focus point. Previously, I usually set the middle focus point, focused on the eyes, then reframed the shot. The problem with this technique is that you have to move the camera when reframing the shot, and the subject or camera may move throwing off focus in the process.

….

Just posted. What do you think of Michael’s views on TTL vs. Manual Flash?

http://www.about-photography.com/2011/1 … ual-flash/

Ive tried a few times to get nice clear pics of a full moon.
Most not that sucessful.

Im using a 20d with 300L IS with an x1.4 making it 672mm

Ive tried a few / many different combinations of iso/speed/aperture etc
also i use mirror lockup with a tripod with a remote, raw and jpg’d too

Anyone any ideas of the best camera settings ?
I read 100iso 1/125th @ f8 which was sucessful but could definately be bettered

I am aware this is a hard subject to shoot and also there is a lot of dust / debris between myself and the moon making focus a little difficult

The best ive done sofar is with my 70-200L and enlarged it with a few PS tweeks

Hello ,

i’m relative new photography , my camera body is a 20D i’ve been for a wile searching for information abot the best format to shot and yhe most recommended between professional and amateur is RAW format over JPEG.

I recently found this info from a we;; know professional photographer (weeding):

CANON EOS10/20D SETTINGS
My recommendation for all Canon 10D/20d for greatest midrange detail and optimum workflow up to 10×15″ prints:
Parameter 1: SETUP:
SIZE – Medium Stairstep
SATURATION – MINUS 1
CONTRAST – MINUS 2
SHARPNESS – PLUS 2
FLASH – E-TTL with no exposure compensation
METEING MODE: Multizone (eyeball with two parenthesis)


My question is : does this setting will affect or improve your qualiy pictures if you shoot in RAW format?? i guess no , but now i’m a little confused.

thank you in advance.

Ruben

I have just released an iPhone game using Chipmunk.

Hangman Sim is the classic hangman game with a little “physical” twist.

http://www.kidnea.com/beans/

Thanks for the nice library!

Rod

I just discovered this and wanted to give a heads up on a this cool little application/webservice called Sportypal
sorobangeeks. com /softwares/ sportypal-free%20download
It gives full info about the position, movement, distance, average speed and calories burned while cycling or any type of movement. I’m using it while cycling, I would like to try it with running too, to see how it works, but I still don’t have some arm wrapper for the phone. Anyone else already using it?